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11/16/2019

The Science Behind Thinning Hair, Brows and Lashes

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The Science Behind Thinning Hair,
​Brows and Lashes and
How to Treat It

Jim Markham, founder and CEO of ColorProof Color Care Authority, notes that, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40 percent of American women will experience thinning hair at some point in their lives. But the causes—and therefore prevention and treatment techniques—can vary greatly. Here, we check in with leading haircare, lash and brow experts to determine how beauty pros can best proceed when faced with clients who crave a dose of added fullness.

Root Causes

Heather Ka’anoi, artistic director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, notes that aging, stress, hormonal imbalance, excessive styling, inadequate nutrition, pregnancy, an unhealthy scalp, heredity, breakage, dramatic weight loss, hypothyroidism, or an iron deficiency can cause hair loss. To identify the range of causes, Syrenthia Quinones, brand education manager for Nioxin, sums them up in six general categories.

Genetics: A family predisposition to thinning hair involves natural, age- related hormonal changes caused by the conversion of testosterone into the toxin dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which can be inherited from a mother or father.

Stress and Trauma
: Stress can produce increased levels of testosterone, which converts to DHT, interrupting the hair growth cycle. Stress also constricts the blood supply through the capillaries, restricting oxygen, nutrient uptake and vitamins to the follicle.

Health
: Underlying issues may include a malfunction of the hormone- producing thyroid or the natural changes women experience after pregnancy and menopause.

Environmental
: Air and water pollutants, chlorine, metals, and minerals left in the hair and on the scalp—as well as pseudo-estrogens and toxins from within our bodies—can contribute to thinning.

Medication
: Hair follicles are extremely sensitive to changes in the body—e.g. hormonal therapies like birth control, steroids, specific chemotherapies, and medications for blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease, or acne.

Nutrition and Diet
: High consumption of animal fats, rapid weight loss and liquid protein diets can result in a lack of amino acids, biotin, iron, protein, and zinc—all essential for healthy-looking hair.

With these main culprits in mind, experts can break down how each affects the hair. Amir Yazdan M.D., founder of GroMD, explains that hormonal concerns, generally caused by elevated levels of DHT or menopause, create an imbalance of estrogen and progesterone, while conditions like polycystic ovarian syndrome (which can increase testosterone levels) or a thyroid imbalance may be to blame. April Cox, national trainer for Eufora, adds that everyone has testosterone in their bodies, as well as the enzyme 5-alpha reductase—but when testosterone and 5-alpha reductase couple together, that forms DHT, creating havoc on scalps, thinning the hair bulb and, in turn, creating thin hair and lock loss.

​Markham remarks that at various times of life, the capability of hair follicle stem cells decreases, inhibiting the ability to regenerate the cells responsible for new growth. Rising levels of DHT cause follicles to shrink and produce thin, atrophied hair (and eventually stop producing new hair altogether). Stem cells, which contain the chemical messengers responsible for hair production, increasingly fail as we age, and the follicle is unable to generate a new, healthy growth phase—resulting in aging scalp tissue, thinning hair and graying. “There’s also poor microcirculation and buildup. A poor blood supply results in sluggish cell turnover, leading to the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells that plug the follicle, preventing hair growth,” Markham notes. “Finally, there’s the failure of new growth to anchor: As tissue repair mechanisms fail, the new, weakened hair is unable to anchor properly and begins to fall out.”
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To complicate matters further, Michelle Blaisure, product development director for Bosley Professional Strength, reports that hair loss is often multifactorial; your client could have a myriad of causes at play, including genetics. “About 20 percent of women thin due to an inherited condition known as female pattern hair loss—the same inherited predisposition (androgenetic alopecia) that causes up to 66 percent of men to lose their hair by age 60,” Blaisure details. “Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is genetic predisposition causes the follicle in the crown and hairline to be sensitive to DHT, which, over time, shortens the hair life cycle, producing finer and weaker tresses, and can lead to changes in density. Men can go completely bald, often starting in their late teens or early 20s, while women experience di used thinning and may notice it in their mid-30s and 40s, when perimenopause starts.” Additionally, aging causes the hair growth cycles to slow, leading to a higher percentage of hair staying in the resting cycle—which, over time, leads to density and diameter changes: less hair, texture alterations, and weaker, drier, frizzier locks as hair loses its lipid layer.

Stress, a more common agent for hair loss in women, causes an increase in cortisol (the stress hormone), which over time “steals” hormones and nutrients the body needs to function well, leading to imbalance and deficiencies. “Since we don’t need hair to live, hair is last in line to get what it needs to grow in a healthy manner,” Blaisure explains. “Any type of traumatic event can also disrupt the hair cycle, leading to sudden excessive shedding (typically happening about three months after the event), but this will usually self-correct after a few months.” Additional culprits, she adds, can be chemical processes (think relaxers and bleach) if they cause damage to the scalp, leading to inflammation, breakage and hair loss; this can even extend to overuse of dry shampoo.

Health states or conditions also play a role: During pregnancy, hormone levels are high, but after childbirth, hormones return to their normal range—so all of the hair that didn’t fall out during pregnancy suddenly sheds at once. “ is also starts at about three months and usually self-corrects over time,” Blaisure notes. “Alternatively, many autoimmune disorders can cause hair shedding, and women seem to be more prone to these conditions.” Dr. Yazdan points to autoimmune conditions—a classification of conditions wherein the body attacks itself, which can include destroying the hair follicles—such as alopecia areata, frontal fibrosing alopecia and many more—as culprits. “Medications such as hormone replacement and birth control pills, steroids and, of course, chemotherapy, may cause hair loss, but differently in different clients,” adds Blaisure. Side effects of medications or chemotherapy treatments can generally be reversed if treated early, Dr. Yazdan explains, and notes that trauma, such as traction alopecia, accidents, surgeries, etc., can lead to short-term loss that can pass over time. Furthermore, Blaisure says, studies show that deficiencies in certain nutrients—namely vitamins C, D and B12, and minerals such as iron, zinc and omega-3 fatty acids—may contribute to hair loss. And, as hair is part of the skin structure, when the scalp receives sun damage, this injury can also impair the follicle.

​Finally, according to Bridgette Hill, aka “The Scalp therapist,” the location of the thinning can assist with determining if the cause is reactional or genetic. “Thinning around the hairline generally indicates a genetic predisposition, while allover thinning with no definitive bald patches typically points to reactional thinning,” Hill details. “The hair loss plan and products to treat reactional thinning will be needed temporarily, whereas a genetics-related hair loss plan and products would involve a lifetime change in her overall hair regimen.”

Read more of the article here for information on Preventative Measures, Extensions & Wigs, and Lash & Brow Losses.
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10/30/2019 0 Comments

What is the difference between FUE and FUT hair transplants?

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The two principal methods of hair transplant are Follicular Unit Transplant (FUT)/strip and Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) – also known as Follicular Unit Extraction. Both are effective hair restoration techniques, with a high success rate. So what is the difference between them? This post explains…

What is the difference between FUE and FUT hair transplants?
0 Comments

10/26/2019

How to Check If Your Hair Loss Is Within Normal Limits

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It can be alarming to look at your comb or at the shower drain and see a clump of hair. Not only could it clog your drain, but you may worry that it’s a sign of serious hair loss. But chances are what you’re seeing isn’t anything to be concerned about, and if you want to be sure, there are easy ways to check for abnormal hair loss at home.

The average person loses somewhere between 50 and 100 strands of hair per day, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Yes, that’s a lot, so don’t panic if you see a few strands in your bathroom.

Hair shedding versus hair loss

And while we’re on the topic, there is a difference between hair loss and hair shedding. The AAD notes that hair shedding—or temporarily losing a little more hair than usual—is completely normal, and usually occurs after a major life stressor or body change, like losing 20 lbs. or more, giving birth, having a high fever, going off birth control pills, or caregiving for a loved one. Excessive hair shedding usually lasts for six to nine months, and then your hair growth and loss returns to normal.

Hair loss, on the other hand, is when something happens that actually stops your hair from growing, the AAD explains. Examples of this include hereditary hair loss, losing hair because of a medication like chemotherapy, using harsh hair care products, or having a compulsion to pull out your own hair. In these cases, the hair will not regrow until the cause stops—though that’s not possible in every case (like if genetics are to blame). If you have questions about the difference between hair shedding and hair loss, it may be a good idea to talk to your doctor.

That said, if you want to test your own rate of hair loss, here are two ways to check:

Pull test
For a simple at-home test, Dr. James C. Marotta suggests you take about 60 hairs between your fingers and pull a little bit as you run your fingers through your hair. It’s normal to see five to eight hairs in your hand. If you have 15 to 20 hairs, though, you could be losing more hair than normal. Marotta explains:
  • “For most, 90 percent of the hair on your head is in the growing phase, while about 10 percent of your hair is in the ‘resting’ phase, meaning that 10 percent will fall out and leave room for new hair growth within a certain period of time. If you are losing more than 15 hairs per pull, it likely means more than 10 percent of the hair on your head is in the ‘resting’ phase.”

Comb test
Here’s another test to try: before shampooing, comb from the back of the top of your head forward to the front of the scalp for one minute. Do this while leaning over a lightly colored bed sheet, then count the hairs on the sheet. According to a study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association: Dermatology, you should see about 10 hairs.

Of course, there are a few caveats for both of these methods, including that these numbers are approximate and may differ between people with different types of hair. Also, we tend to lose more hair as we age, which again, is normal. But the general idea is to know what’s normal for you so you can tell when it has gotten worse.

This story was originally published on 11/17/16 and was updated on 8/28/19 to provide more thorough and current information.

9/23/2019

I Saw a Trichologist About My Thinning — Here’s What I Learned

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Over the past two years, my already-fine ponytail has dwindled down to a quarter of its size. I’ve tried everything to reverse the trend: Going off birth control; going on a hiatus with my colorist; trying every hair-growth supplement under the sun. I had four failed hair trials for my upcoming wedding before I finally accepted defeat: I wouldn’t be able to wear my hair down as I had always wanted to, because my hair had become nearly see-through. I know I sound melodramatic (it’s only hair, after all), but it was devastating.   

Cue my excitement when a colleague suggested I meet with a trichologist to get to the root of the problem. For those unfamiliar, trichology is a subset of dermatology that focuses on scalp and hair health. Semblance of hope restored, I booked an appointment with Stephen Pullan, a consultant trichologist (aka hair doctor) for the Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic in New York. Here’s what he taught me:

Birth Control Might Be a Factor
As mentioned, I had gone off birth control in the hopes of restoring my natural hormone levels. But as Pullan told me, that actually might have been a hindrance to my hair growth, as many birth controls can actually stimulate follicles. According to the clinic, “oral contraceptives that use drospirenone have the potential to be more favorable for hair follicles, as there is a lower androgenic affect.”

...and Ferritin Levels Definitely Are
PSA: Low levels of ferritin—a blood cell protein that contains iron—is the leading cause of hair thinning in women. Pullan instructed me to get a ferritin test to check whether my iron stores were low. But after sharing my standard weekday meals (a banana on the way out the door; veggie and grains salads for lunch), he assured me—no test needed—that my iron levels were definitely not up to snuff. He sent me home with a Tricho-complex supplement (a blend of iron, B12 and vitamin C) as well as gelatin proteins to take twice a day.

Hair Needs to Eat in the Morning

As new information to me, I learned that hair is a “non-essential tissue,” meaning the human body doesn’t prioritize its nutritional needs first and it’s the first place to visibly suffer when nutrition isn’t up to par. The most important hair meal (sorry, banana on the go) is breakfast: Energy to form hair cells is lowest when you first wake up, so you need extra protein in the morning—plus complex carbs, vitamins, minerals and tons of water for a healthy hair diet.

...And to Be Coddled
I replaced my brush with a wide toothcomb and have been using a detangling spray every time I comb my hair to avoid split ends and breakage. I’ve laid off heat styling entirely and now brush my hair super, super gently. While I’ve yet to get my blood work done to deduce whether something larger is at play, I can happily say that my locks are shinier and more voluminous after just seven weeks of the regimen.

This article was found on PureWow

9/20/2019

11 Great Men’s Hair Loss Products at Every Price Point

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Male-patterned baldness is nothing to be ashamed about—but it’s also nothing to ignore. If you attack hair loss at its first sign, you can stop baldness before it takes hold. Thinning hair happens to most of us in some form as we age. But only those who blow it off now will wake up one day and realize: “Oh no—I’m bald!” And once you cross the threshold and develop the dreaded “bald spot,” it’s extremely difficult to reverse your hair loss.

But it can be done. Scientific research on hair loss has ballooned over the last few decades, and what was once considered an unstoppable sign of aging is now a symptom that can be treated, if not cured. You just need to find the right hair loss product for you. And while the science is advanced these days, there’s still no miracle solution, no “magic bullet” to cure hair loss in everybody. Thus far, the only effective method way to find the hair loss product for you is to experiment until you find one that works.

What Causes Hair Loss?
Science has determined that the number one factor in hair loss and thinning hair is the production of dihydrotestosterone, or DHT. DHT is a hormone—an androgen that helps give us men our maleness. But as we age, DHT can cause our hair follicles to shrink, leading to hair loss.

It’s also been linked to prostate health. This is why many men who experience urinary issues are told by their doctors to take a saw palmetto supplement, an herbal DHT blocker. It can decrease the size of the prostate and improve urinary health. But it can also spur hair growth. You’ll find plenty of synthetic DHT blockers on the market and on our list. But if you prefer an all-natural hair loss solution, saw palmetto supplement is the way to go.

Propidren combines the natural benefits of saw palmetto with biotin-based DHT blockers, in a handy pill form that’s not too expensive. So you get the best of both worlds. With 90 percent of Amazon users giving it a perfect five-star rating, it was impossible for us not to pick it as our best overall hair loss product.

What are some of the other hair-loss products and treatments we recommend?
  • Amplixin Intensive Growth Serum—If you’re just noticing your hair beginning to thin, get on this train now and stop baldness before it takes hold;
  • Nutrafol—This all-around supplement contains not only DHT blockers but ingredients to improve your sleep and reduce stress, which aids in recovery and spurs hair growth;
  • DrFormulas HairOmega 3-in-1—This vitamin supplement contains a full spectrum of vitamin E (keratin) as well as DHT blockers;
  • Prime Beard—If you can’t fill in your scraggly beard, try this stuff, which promises to improve overall hair,s kin, and nail health.

Before you begin the process of trying hair-loss products until you find one that works for you, here’s something to keep in mind: Most if not all hair-loss products will stop working as soon as you stop using them. But once you find a product that seems to work—and you need to give it at least three months before you can expect results—you must use it, or you’ll lose it. Simply maintain a regimen—like brushing your teeth—and you should have a mane like Momoa in no time.

​Click here for the Pros and Cons of the recommended products.
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