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3/19/2023

Curly and Coily Hair: Dermatologist Tips on How to Take Care of It

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Image by fizkes via Shutterstock
​Many find it overwhelming to care for curly or coily hair because it requires extra care to keep it looking healthy. It can often be more fragile and prone to breakage. Since everyone's hair is different, it requires trial and error to find the products and care routine that is right for you. Read on to learn some tips on caring for curly and coily hair to keep it looking beautiful.
Key takeaways:
  • Genetics controls the shape of the hair follicles, which determines whether the hair will be curly or straight.
  • Curly and coily hair can be more dry, fragile, and prone to breakage requiring special care.
  • Use shampoos and conditioners specially designed for curly or coily hair to keep it adequately moisturized.
  • Proper care routines will keep your hair looking shiny and healthy, such as using detanglers, leave-in conditioners, hair masks, and heat-protecting products.
  • It is also important to protect curly and coily hair while sleeping and when outside.
Different hair types

There are four different hair types:
  1. Straight
  2. Wavy
  3. Curly
  4. Coily

The shape of the follicle determines the type of hair you will have. If the follicle is growing completely straight and the follicle is round, your hair will be straight.

Curly and coily hair has an "s" shaped oval follicle. It also has many disulfide bonds within the hair shaft that keep it curly or coily. This shape of the follicle makes it more prone to dryness and breakage.

Factors controlling the appearance of your hair

Other things determine the appearance of your hair, such as structure, density, and porosity.
  • Structure. The structure of the hair refers to whether it is thin, fine, or thick, coarse hair. Curly and coily hair tends to be thicker.
  • Density. The density will determine how much hair you have. Curly and coily hair tends to have lower density.
  • Porosity. This refers to the amount of moisture your hair can absorb. If you have high porosity (curly or coily hair) and many openings in the cuticle of your hair, your hair will dry out easily and require extra moisture to keep it healthy.

Expert haircare tips for curly & coily hair:

Genetics ultimately determines what type of hair we will have and its characteristics. Many try to straighten their hair, but it is only a temporary change because you cannot change your genetic code with a simple salon treatment. Evolutionarily, curly and coily hair has the advantage of being more protective of the scalp and better at thermoregulation.

How to wash curly or coily hairBecause curly and coily hair is so fragile, it is critical to only wash it correctly.
  • Frequency. Wash about once a week with a gentle shampoo.
  • Technique. Do not scrub your scalp because that will cause excess oil production and irritate the scalp.
  • Water temperature. Use only use cool water. Hot water can dehydrate your hair.
  • Cleansing. Cleanse with clarifying shampoo every two weeks to remove product build-up.
  • Chemicals. Avoid sulfates and parabens.
  • Specialized products. Use only shampoos specially formulated for curly or coily hair.
  • Pre-shampoo. Consider using a conditioner before shampooing to protect the hair.

Using a conditioner with curly or coily hair

It is critical to use the correct conditioner every time you shampoo to protect and hydrate the hair.
  • Moisturize. Select a moisturizing conditioner specially designed for curly or coily hair.
  • Oils. Look for ingredients like coconut, avocado, or argan oil, which are super-hydrating.
  • Leave-ins. Consider a leave-in conditioner.

How to style curly or coily hair

There are definite dos and don'ts to styling curly or coily hair because it is so fragile.
  • Towel drying. Pat or squeeze the hair dry with a soft towel. Never rub your hair.
  • Prepping. Before combing your hair, apply a detangler.
  • Combing. Only use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers. Never brush wet hair.
  • Protecting. Use a heat-protecting spray with keratin if you must use a hair dryer or hot tools.
  • Air drying. It is best to air-dry your hair. If you must use a hair dryer, use it on the lowest heat for the shortest amount of time. Keep it at least 6 inches from your hair. Diffuser attachments are recommended.
  • Hair masks. Apply a hair mask every two weeks to give your hair extra moisture at night.
  • Trims. Have your hair professionally trimmed every 2–3 months.
  • Styles. Do not use tight braids or ponytails since they can lead to hair loss (traction alopecia).

Overnight tips for curly or coily hair

Because curly and coily hair is delicate, sleeping positions matter.
  • Avoid sleeping on your back because this can damage the hair.
  • Pull your hair up into a loose bun or braid at night.
  • Sleep on silk pillowcases, which will decrease friction and damage to the hair.
  • Apply nourishing oils overnight.
  • Consider sleeping in a silky bonnet to protect your hair at night.

Curly and coily hair requires a lot of care to prevent damage and breakage. It can be daunting for some. Just remember it is dry and fragile and treat it accordingly. With the right routine and nourishing products, you can keep your hair looking healthy and lustrous. If you need help, ask your dermatologist.
​
FAQ
Do I need to protect my curly or coily hair outside?Curly or coily hair is fragile and prone to damage and subsequent breakage. You need to protect it from pollution and harmful UV ray's from the sun that can damage it. Wear a wide-brimmed hat during the day to cover and protect your hair. As a bonus, it will protect parts of your face from the sun also.

Is diet important for curly or coily hair?
A healthy body will produce healthy hair. Your diet should consist of antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables and good lean proteins. Avoid smoking and excess alcohol.
Resources:
  1. Proceedings of the Royal Society A Mathemathical, Physical, and Engineering Sciences. The what, why and how of curly hair: a review.
  2. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. Healthy hair: what is it?
  3. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. Understanding curly hair mechanics: fiber strength.
  4. Experimental Dermatology. The biology and genetics of curly hair.
  5. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Hair shape of curly hair.
from HealthNews

3/14/2023

So, What Exactly Is Demipermanent Hair Color?

No, they didn’t just spell "semipermanent" wrong.
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Changing your hair color is a surefire way to feel different and fresh. Unless… the color is bad. That new copper hair trend that looks so cute on TikTok isn’t looking as cute on you — and now you’re stuck with it, right?

If you used a permanent hair dye, yes. It’ll take a lot of tinting and color correction to get you back to a good spot. You have to add green or blue to neutralize the copper — it’s a whole thing. The process could take months and your hair will be fighting for its life by the time you’re through.

Now imagine you used a demipermanent color instead. Rather than trying to neutralize the orange or using ammonia on already bleached hair, that copper color will simply fade away after 24-ish washes. Demipermanent hair color is like semipermanent dye’s cousin that has a bit more staying power. While semipermanent color washes out within a few washes, and permanent color never truly leaves, hairstylist Larry Sims says demipermanent color lasts up to 30 washes, if you’re cool with forgoing super hot showers. Plus, demipermanent dyes don’t contain ammonia, so they won’t damage or permanently alter your hair the way a permanent dye will.

It’s the perfect hair-color solution for commitment-phobes, color lovers, and people who frequently proclaim, "I just wanted a change!" — and we should be talking about it more. (Because wow, I wish I knew this was a thing when I tried to self-color-correct an auburn, permanent box dye gone wrong and walked around with splotchy green-brown hair for a year.)
Meet the experts:
  • Rex Jimieson is a color educator and colorist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.
  • Larry Sims is a hairstylist in Los Angeles and cofounder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union.
  • Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist and adjunct professor of cosmetic science at the University of Toledo. 

In this story:
  • What is demipermanent hair color?
  • Benefits of using demipermanent hair color
  • How to use demipermanent hair color
  • How to make demipermanent hair color last
  • Expert-approved demipermanent hair colors
What is demipermanent hair color?

Demipermanent hair color is a little more permanent than semipermanent color but less permanent than permanent color. On a scale of "this will never leave your hair" and "washes out instantly," demipermanent falls somewhere in between. 

It all comes down to a little something I haven’t thought much about since high school: chemistry. "There are many different chemistries that can be used to color hair, and the categories have some overlap," explains cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. "Permanent dyes involve the penetration of small color molecules into the hair, which are then converted into larger molecules through a chemical reaction. Those larger molecules become embedded in the hair." In other words, they won’t wash out. 

Semipermanent dyes, on the other hand, "rely primarily on diffusion of dye into the hair cuticle," says Dobos. "No chemical reactions involved." The dye molecules aren’t embedded in the hair, which means a semipermanent dye will continue to wash out with each shampoo. 

Demipermanent dyes fall somewhere in between. The magic (er, chemistry) is in the developer. "Developers help open the hair cuticle, allowing dye molecules to penetrate," says Dobos. Depending on the level of developer you use, it can also provide some "lift" or lightening of the hair. "The degree of lift is dependent on the concentration of peroxide in the developer," she continues. "The higher the volume number, the greater the lift." But a low-level developer, like a 10 volume, "allows pigment to deposit with no lift."

Okay, chemistry lesson over. Demipermanent dye uses a low-volume, mild peroxide developer (usually a 10 volume developer) to enable color molecules to penetrate and coat the surface layer of the hair cuticle — and just the surface layer. Because of the low concentration of peroxide, it won’t lighten your hair (good news, it won’t damage it either). So it’s not a great choice if you’re hoping to go blonde, but it is a great option for blending uneven color, adding lowlights, toning dull or brassy blondes, or adding richness and shine to any color. That being said, if you already have very dark hair, you’re definitely limited in what you can do with demipermanent color. In this case, blondes do have more fun.

The low-level developer gives the demipermanent color some staying power (semipermanent dye is typically applied without any developer), but a demipermanent dye job is only expected to last for about 24 washes before that color coating fades away.

Benefits of using demipermanent hair color

Colorist Rex Jimieson says demipermanent color has five major benefits over permanent color: "It has no ammonia, it’s easier to grow out, it adds more shine, it’s easier to change later, and it processes quicker."

No ammonia means demipermanent color won’t damage or dry out your hair the way permanent color will. And curly girls, rejoice: Demipermanent color won’t alter or damage your curl pattern — it’s totally safe for all hair types.

With a demipermanent dye, you’ll still get that obvious "I just dyed my hair" change without the commitment or damage that comes with permanent color. And because that color fades over time, you won’t have to worry about root touch-ups or blending new growth. Your hair should return to its original state after the color washes out entirely. 

"Permanent color needs touching up every three to six weeks to keep up with hair growth," says Jimieson. "While you might get eight or 12 weeks out of your root line with a demipermanent dye" because it will start to fade — thus, be less noticeably different from your roots — as your hair grows out. So it’s a great option if you’re on a budget or can’t make it to the salon every month.

Demipermanent hair color comes in a creme or a liquid — and it can be customized to your color needs. In a liquid state, demipermanent color can be diluted for a more sheer or subtle hue for those who are a bit color shy or looking for a less drastic change. 

How to use demipermanent hair color

Demipermanent hair color can’t lighten your hair, but there are lots of things it can do. Opt for a demipermanent dye if you fall within the below categories:
  • You want to go darker. Demipermanent hair dye can darken your hair by about three shades. But Jimieson recommends sticking within two levels of your natural color, "that way your underlying pigment will support the demi color the best." If you plan to use a demipermanent color regularly, "don’t pull it through the ends every time," he says. "Let nature soften the ends, so you don’t get buildup at the bottom."
  • You want to blend your grays. If you’re less than 50 percent gray, a demipermanent color can blend and tone your gray hair to shine through like natural highlights — it just won’t cover them entirely. "Keep in mind your color will be less opaque,” says Jimieson. “But that's why it grows out better."
  • You want to try a new, bold color. "I use demipermanent dye with high-fade, vibrant colors such as reds, purples, and blues," says Sims. “They’ll lose their vibrancy but fade slowly over time.” If you change your mind or want to try a new color next month, you won’t need to undergo an entire color-correction process.
  • You need a refresh. Demipermanent color can safely be used over the top of permanent color to refresh faded ends or touch up roots without causing further damage.
  • You want to try a new tint. Blondes can use demipermanent colors to try out fun new tints like pink or copper. (This works on darker hair too, but the results are much more subtle.) Most toners fall into the semipermanent category (they wash out really quickly), but you can use demipermanent color as a longer-lasting toner to brighten dull or brassy hair.

Demipermanent dye gives you a little more DIY leeway (if things get a little blotchy, it won’t be as obvious and will eventually fade away), but our experts say you should still head to the salon if you’re looking for a demipermanent change. "Demipermanent color can be used at home if you’re amazing at coloring your own hair," says Sims. "Otherwise, I would leave it up to the professionals."

How to make demipermanent hair color last

Your demipermanent color will wash out eventually — that’s the beauty of it! But you can make it last longer by limiting how often you wash your hair (dry shampoo is your friend) and "use a shampoo line that is color safe," says Jimieson. "Almost anything sold in a salon or prescribed by your colorist or stylist will work." These products are formulated to gently cleanse and condition without stripping the color. 

On the flip side, if you wound up with a color you hate, you don’t have to live with it for long. You can accelerate the fading process of a demipermanent dye by using a clarifying shampoo — just be sure to follow up with a super moisturizing conditioner because clarifying shampoos can be extremely drying.

​from Allure
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3/10/2023

Why the world’s hair is all business in the front – party in the back

The massive mullet moment:
why the world’s hair is all business in the front – party in the back
It’s been bubbling up for a while, but now it seems the hairstyle has reached another tipping point.
And no wonder. It’s weird, cool, sexy and liberating.
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The ultimate ‘ugly’ haircut … Lucy Knight with her mullet in its prime. Photograph: Lucy Knight

M
ullets, it seems, are “back”. Again. In recent years celebrities including Miley Cyrus, Lil Nas X and Rihanna have sported “parties in the back”, while swathes of TikTok users have made videos showing off theirs (the hashtag “mullet” currently has more than 10 billion views on the app). But Paul Mescal, star of Normal People and Aftersun and heart-throb of straight woman everywhere, has somehow tipped the scales and made it official: mullets, once acceptable only for hippies and Australians, can be – and very much are – sexy.

Up until about a month ago, I had been wearing my hair in some approximation of a mullet for just over a year. It is now a bit too short at the back to count, which is more a result of my miscommunication with the barber (it was my first time risking a visit to a regular “men’s” barbershop and I panicked) than any real desire to de-mullet.

One theory about the mullet comeback is that it is a product of the Covid pandemic, as a result of people who previously had short hair letting it grow out. My own was technically a pandemic mullet, debuting at the end of 2021, just before the Omicron variant had it spending a month mostly tucked inside my dressing gown hood. I’m sure the increase in mullets around me must have spurred on my decision to an extent. But the slightly embarrassing truth is that I had wanted a mullet for a good year or two before I got one. I knew, however, that getting one would make me stick out at my old workplace, and I’ve always let that kind of thing bother me a bit too much. So I waited until I got a job at the tofu-eating Guardian, where everyone was too enlightened (or at least too polite) to be rude about my hair.
PictureLucy with her mini-mullet. Photograph: Lucy Knight
While I was obviously a big old wuss to let a fear of what people might think get in the way of a haircut, I was not wrong to assume that a mullet would evoke strong reactions. A mullet is in some ways the ultimate “ugly” haircut, mysteriously managing to be weird and cool. Though my parents were predictably unfazed (having previously come out as a lesbian and a vegetarian, I don’t think I can shock them any more) and my close friends predictably complimentary, I did attract some snarky comments from a stranger at a work event: “Is that what the kids are doing now? God help us.” And while my mullet seemed to ward off a fair amount of creepiness from men, some of the sexist remarks simply got exchanged for homophobic ones.

Because – and this is worth remembering, now that everyone is doing it – mullets are gay. Drag kings and dykes and queers of all flavours have been mulleting ever since the cut was last officially in fashion. A straight man may now show his barber a picture of Mescal, but only because queer women like me went before him and asked our stylists for a cut like Tegan and Sara’s.

It’s the queerness, the androgyny and the general rule-breaking playfulness of a mullet that made me, and presumably many others, want to try one in the first place. And I know it sounds ridiculously cringey to say, but it is a haircut that made me feel free – free of expectations, free to express myself. Those feelings can’t be thwarted by a few nasty comments or raised eyebrows, I realise now. My mullet can’t grow back fast enough.

from The Guardian

3/6/2023

Follically Challenged: ORAL MINOXIDIL: SHOULD YOU USE IT?

Oral minoxidil is becoming an increasingly popular treatment option for hair loss patients.
​This article will discuss a few background points regarding this phenomenon.
LOW-DOSE ORAL MINOXIDIL FOR HAIR GROWTH
Over the past 3-4 years, the prescription and use of oral minoxidil for hair loss has increased. This trend was likely driven by several peer-reviewed studies published around 2019/2020, including a study done at the Ramon y Cajal University Hospital in Spain, and a paper published in 2020 by Antonella Tosti and Michael Randolph, both appeared in the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology. Both studies presented an overall favorable opinion of the use of oral minoxidil for androgenic alopecia, and the latter concluded that it “was found to be an effective and well-tolerated treatment alternative for healthy patients having difficulty with topical formulations.” ​
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JAAD 2019; 81: 648-9
Dating back to over 50 years ago, oral minoxidil first showed signs of hypertrichosis in patients who were using the drug as a hypertensive agent, or a treatment to lower blood pressure. Several years later, a topical formulation of minoxidil was developed, and in 1988 the first version of 2% Regaine was launched in the UK as a treatment for pattern hair loss. Presumably, regulatory agencies and the pharmaceutical company who was developing minoxidil for hypertension had concerns about using it as a systemic treatment for hair loss. For over the past 30 years, topical minoxidil has been a staple hair loss treatment and a household name, as one of the only 2 FDA approved treatments for hair loss.
​
Topical use of the product has come with mixed results among patients, mostly due to the varying amounts person-to-person of sulfotransferase, or SULT1A1, enzymes which are found in one’s hair follicles. The SULT1A1 enzyme is needed to convert minoxidil to its active form minoxidil sulfate within the hair follicle in order for the drug to promote a significant hair growth effect. It is a common theory that oral minoxidil outperforms topical minoxidil in hair growth efficacy due to facts that 1) the liver converts minoxidil into its sulfated form via phenol sulfotransferase and negates the need for hair follicle SULT1A1 levels and 2) the treatment naturally goes systemic and is more present in the bloodstream. Low-dose oral minoxidil is established to be at a dose of 5mg or lower.
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33 Year Old Female Result Oral Minoxidil (www.irycis.org)
DISCUSSION

​Interest from multiple readers of this site prompted me to write about the use of low-dose oral minoxidil (OM) for hair growth, otherwise, I figured that most people were already aware of the possibility of getting this drug prescribed to them. Throughout various messaging channels on the internet, it is possible to find a multitude of testimonials from users of oral minoxidil, many positive, and some of them show very impressive results. Alternatively, you can also find remarks from users who experienced adverse effects from the drug and subsequently discontinued its use. A topic for which I have yet to find literature for, and one which I think deserves attention, is suggesting the lowest efficacious dose of OM for AGA, or “microdosing” OM. For a dermatologist’s perspective on the use of low-dose OM for AGA, see a review written for the JAAD which includes clinical trial data and mentions the warnings associated with the drug. Several years from now, it may be possible to evaluate longer term use of low-dose OM for AGA and compare its safety to the relatively short-term studies linked above, which were found to be generally favorable. Low-dose oral minoxidil should always be used under doctor’s supervision. 
from Follicle Thought

3/5/2023

Holi 2023: When is Holi? Correct date, history, celebrations, shubh muhurat, puja vidhi and all you need to know

Holi 2023: Holi is one of the biggest Hindu festivals that celebrates the victory of good over evil. Is Holi on March 7 or 8?
Find out the correct date, history, significance, shubh muhurat, celebrations,
​and all you need to know about the festival of colours inside.
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Holi - the festival of colours - is right around the corner. It is celebrated with much pomp by Hindus all across the globe and is one of the biggest festivals in India after Diwali. The celebrations last for two days - beginning with Choti Holi or Holika Dahan, followed by Dhulandi or Rangwali Holi. The occasion marks the victory of good over evil. It falls in the Hindu calendar month of Phalgun - falling between February and March. People celebrate the day with colours, water, balloons and flowers. Children and adults smear Gulal on each other and seek blessings from their elders. They also visit friends and relatives to commemorate the auspicious, grand celebration and relish Holi delicacies like gujiya, thandai and more. If you wish to know more about this festival, like the correct date, history, significance, celebrations, shubh muhurat, puja vidhi and more, check it out below.
Holi 2023 Date: When is Holi and its shubh muhurat?

This year, Holi falls on March 8, and Holika Dahan falls on March 7. According to Drik Panchang, Purnima tithi begins at 04:17 pm on March 6 and ends at 06:09 pm on March 7. The Holika Dahan tithi will last from 06:24 pm to 08:51 pm on March 7. Additionally, the Bhadra Punchha will be from 12:43 am to 02:01 am, and the Bhadra Mukha is from 02:01 am to 04:11 am.

Holi 2023 History and Significance:
​

Holi is a celebration of the divine love between Lord Krishna and Radha and the victory of good over evil. It is also marked as a harvest festival, commemorating spring's arrival and the end of winter. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Krishna was dark in complexion, and Radha was very fair. Krishna used to be anxious if Radha would accept him because of their opposite skin colour and complained to his mother, Yashoda. One day, Yashoda playfully suggested Krishna smear Radha's face with colour to remove any differences. Krishna followed his mother's advice and smeared Radha's face with Gulal. And that is how people began celebrating Holi.
Another legend associated with Holi elaborates the story of king Hiranyakashipu, his son Prahalad - a devotee of Lord Vishnu, and his demoness aunt, Holika. Indian mythology says that Hiranyakashipu was blessed with a boon - he could not be killed by a man or animal. Therefore, he forced people to worship him. However, when his son became a devotee of Lord Vishnu and refused to worship him, Hiranyakashipu asked his sister Holika to kill him by sitting on a pyre while wearing a flame-shielding cloth. However, Prahlad prayed to Lord Vishnu to protect him - summoning a gust of wind that transferred the cloth from Holika to him. Thus, a day before Holi, Holika Dahan is celebrated to mark the victory of good over evil.
Holi 2023 Celebrations:
​

The auspicious festival of Holi is celebrated with pomp in places related to Lord Krishna, known as the Braj regions - Mathura, Vrindavan, Gowardhan, Gokul, Nandagaon and Barsana. The Lathmar Holi - the traditional Holi festivity in Barsana - and Phoolwali Holi in Vrindavan are world famous. Meanwhile, the festival is marked for two days - Chhoti Holi or Holika Dahan and Rangwali Holi or Dhulandi. During Holika Dahan, people light a bonfire to signify the victory of good over evil. On the next day, they wake up early in the morning to play with colours or Gulal. Children fill balloons and toy guns with water and play with their friends. People also relish sweet delicacies and thandai specially prepared for the festival.
from Hindustan Times
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